DIY Kit: Snap Wallet with Key Clasp
By Black Spruce Leather
Click here to buy this kit
Pick up a new skill and make a piece that will last a lifetime. Whether it’s for you or a gift to a loved one, this is a piece that you will be proud to say that you made.
What you’ll make:
This leather wallet is simple and versatile. It fits cards and folded cash – so it can be used as your everyday wallet or coin pouch. It can also be used to store your earbuds, jewelry or other small belongings. We believe in using only high quality materials: Beautiful North American cowhide from Wickett & Craig Tannery, Ritza Tiger thread and solid brass hardware. Personalize your wallet with your choice of leather colour and thread colour. Whether it’s for you or a gift to a loved one, this is a piece that you will be proud to say that you made.
What you’ll learn:
You will learn the useful, basic leatherworking skills following a pattern and performing the traditional saddle stitch. These skills and tools can be used to fix your heavy-duty gear in the future, or to make simple accessories from leather or similar materials.
- Laser cut Vegetable Tanned Cowhide pattern in the colour of your choice
- Pre-attached brass snap hardware
- Ritza Tiger Thread, in the colour of your choice
- Solid brass swivel snap hardware
- 2 Harness Needles
- 1 Diamond Chisel
- Wooden cutting surface / Photo Prop
- Paper template
- Printed instructions and a link to online detailed instructions
- Reusable organic cotton gift bag
What you need:
- Hammer or mallet
- Pliers to assist with sewing
- 2-3 hours
- Mark holes: Overlay the “Front Panel” pattern directly on top of the matching piece of leather and use your diamond chisel to gently trace / mark the holes. Repeat for the “Back Panel” and “Clasp Tab”
- Punch holes: On the backside of your cutting mat, use your diamond chisel and your hammer/mallet, to carefully punch out the holes that you have marked. Keep the flat side of the chisel in line with the wallet-edge and be as consistent as possible. Be sure to hold the chisel straight up-and-down at a 90-degree angle. You don’t need to hammer very hard.
Notice how the diamond chisel is held straight and the flat surface is in line / is parallel to the edge of the leather. You will rotate the chisel 90 degrees when you punch the holes at the bottom of the wallet, to keep the flat surface in line with the edge.
- Thread needle and prepare for saddle stitch: This method of stitching requires that you secure a needle on both ends of the thread so that each hole is stitched from the front and the back. The following image demonstrates how to secure your needle to the thread. Repeat all six steps to secure the second needle to the opposite end of the same thread.
From Left to Right: Feed the thread through the hole and then pierce the thread with the tip of the needle, leaving about an inch of thread at the end; Slide the pierced thread down the length of the needle; Slide the pierced thread over the base of the needle; Pull the tail-end of the string taught, to secure the needle in place.
- Time to sew! Lay the front panel over the back panel, ensuring that the smooth side of the leather is facing outwards on both sides. Your first stitch hole is marked on the top right corner (see “Front Panel” pattern for clarification). Thread the needle through this hole until there’s an equal amount of thread on both sides. Keeping a hold on the same needle, wrap the thread back around to the front of the wallet and thread it through the same hole again. Pull snug. This stitch is both decorative and increases durability of the final product. When pulling needle through hole, be sure to pull away from your body/eyes for safety.
Match up the front and back panels
Thread the needle through the first holes.
Using the same needle, wrap the thread around the right-hand-side of the wallet.
Pull the stitch snug
- Saddle Stitch: The remainder of the wallet will be sewn using the traditional saddle stitch – a method that is more durable than machine stitching. Take the needle on the front of the wallet and thread it through the second hole. Take the needle on the back and push it through the SAME hole (Avoid piercing thread from the previous stitch). Pull both sides snug to tighten stitch. Always start with the needle on the front side- consistency is key to a clean looking stitch. Continue along the length of the wallet until the 4th-final hole. If you are finding it difficult to pull the needle through the hole, use a pair of pliers held firmly at the base of the needle. If you require to take out stitches at any point, we recommend removing the needles firstThread the needle on the front of the wallet through the 2nd hole.
Thread the needle through the second hole.
Pull the stitch snug and slightly backwards, to create space in the hole for the next stitch.
Now taking the back needle, thread it through the same hole that the front needle just came through, being careful not to pierce the thread.
Use your pliers at the base of the needle to help you pull it through the hole, pulling straight and away from your body
6. Attach “Clasp Tab” (Optional). When you arrive at the 4th hole from the end, insert the “Leather Tab” wrapped around the brass clasp. The “4th final hole” and “3rd Final hole” (see pattern for clarification) will be going through all four layers of leather and you may need your pliers here, to help you pull the needle through. You may also try slowly pushing the needle through by applying pressure down onto the cutting surface.
Fold the leather tab around the clasp, insert it between the Front and Back panels and continue to stitch through all four layers.
If need be, you can slowly push down on your needle against your table/cutting mat to help push it through the hole, ensuring that it is following the path of the holes that you made.
- Finishing your stitching: When you get to the “Final Hole”, you can wrap a stitch around the left-hand side of the wallet, as you did on your very first stitch. Now, you will back stitch 3-4 stitches to lock the stitches in place for a permanent hold. Be sure to pull the stitches snug.
Wrap the stitch around the left-hand-side of the wallet and pull snug.
Back stitch 3-4 full stitches; pulling the thread back (in the opposite direction from stitching) helps create more room for the needle.
- Time for the final touches! Snip the threads as close to the leather as possible. Fold the snap top down and –on a smooth surface so that you don’t scratch the leather—use your thumb to crease the leather at the fold line. Snap the button together and your wallet is ready to go. It’ll soften and stretch to fit more with use :)
Snip the excess thread as close to the leather as possible
Use your thumb to crease the fold line of your wallet
9. Congratulations, you made a leather wallet! Take a photo & (or) selfie with your work & your well-used cutting mat card –and tag us @blackspruceleather #myblackspruce
Click here to buy this kit